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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest shop earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.